Facing waves is a close metaphor to facing your fears. The bigger the wave, the more courage builds. Undisputable law of physics. To the point of finding rythm and balance. Then not even courage is necesary. Lucky to be in Miramar Beach on this cloudy, windy day.
Forecast had nothing. Yet bombs is what I found. Overhead, stormy and in solitude. Sometimes it's better to burn out than to fade away.
Surfing for the soul, soccer for the heart, CJJ for survival. Fit for life.
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